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Gem Stone Cuts

Cutting gemstones turns a rather shapeless, unimpressive natural stone into a geometric shape that greatly enhances their beauty and colour. Numerous facets allow light that enters the stone and reflects it out of the stone and back to the eye.  The efficiency of the stone in reflecting this light is based in large part on the shape of the facets and the accuracy of their cut. The more popular shapes are shown below, illustrated with diamonds:

ROUND BRILLIANT CUT
The most popular type of diamond cut, and then standard for all other diamond shapes. It accounts for more than 75% of diamonds sold today. It has 58 facets, devided among its crown (top), girdle (widest part) and pavilion (base), is calibrated through a precise formula to achieve the maximum in fire and brilliance.

PRINCESS CUT
The sparkle of a brilliant cut combined with the shape of an emerald cut. This cut was designed for getting maximum brilliance from a square cut. It is important that the setting of this gem proects the corners, which are the most likely to chip. This cut is also the most forgiving cut for a diamonds as it hides flaws and inclusions.

CUSHION CUT
The cushion cut is an antique cut that most often resembles a cross between the Old Mine Cut (a deep cut with large facets that was common in the late 19th and early 20th centuries) and a modern oval cut. Also known as the pillow cut or candlelight cut, this cut is not as fiery or brilliant as many newer cuts, but is known as a mavelously romantic and classy look which stands out in a crowd.

EMERALD CUT
Known as the emerald cut because it was originally developed for cutting emeralds. This cut was developed to address the problem of breakage in gems with inclusions (which emeralds commonly have). Now used for all types of gem stones, this cut can be absolutely stunning. It's long lines tend to be less fiery that a round brilliant cut, but they tend to have broader, more dramatic flashes of light. These lines lend an elegance and sophistication to the simplest and most elaborate jewellery settings.

HEART SHAPED CUT
Considered the most romantic of all cuts, this cut of gem can be quite fiery, with excellent sparkle. It is essentially a pear-shaped cut with a cleft at the top. This cut of gem can be difficult to find in some gem types, and it is important to get details on the dimensions of the gem - review the length to width ration to determine the heart's proportions and decide if you like the location and depth of the cleft.

OVAL CUT
Created by Lazare Kaplan in the late 1950s -early 1960s, it is an eliptical variation of the more common round brilliant cut, and is known to have a similar beautiful brilliance. This cut is also popular because their length tends to accentuate long, slender fingers. The perfect cut for people who loves the sparkle of a round brilliant, but desires a less common shape.

ASSCHER CUT
Developed in 1902 by the Asscher Brother in Holland, it is descibed as a stepped square cut (square emerald cut) with cropped corners.
While hard to find in the past, the Asscher Cut has become significantly more popular as it was featured on the tv show 'Sex and the City', and has been worn by stars such as Kate Hudson as engagement rings. Do to it's popularity the range of diamonds available in this fashionable cut tend to be smaller that more common cuts.

PEAR SHAPED CUT
Also known as the teardrop cut because of its shape. This combination cut of a round brilliant and a marquise cut creates a gem with fire and wonderful sparkle and flash. The lines of this cut give a gem a sophisticated air to any piece of jewellery


RADIANT CUT
This cut combines the fire of the round brilliant cut and the shape of the less fiery Emerald Cut or Asscher Cut. This cut was designed for maximum brilliance, often rectangular but sometimes square, it differs from the Emerald Cut in that it is faceted for fire and does not have long trim lines.


MARQUISE CUT
Described as an elongated oval with pointed ends, which was commissioned by France's King Louis XIV (known as the sun king), and was inspired by the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour. Though often used as a solitaire, it can also be set with smaller gems to enhance its shape.


TRILLIANT CUT
First developed in Amsterdam, this 34 facet cut can vary in extact shape from traditional triangular angles or one with more rounded sides. It is stunning visually, but weak and prone to chipped corners.


 

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